Back in 1958, a pioneering advertising agency called W.S. Crawford commissioned its research department to find out what the people of Britain were eating. It spoke to 4,000 families, face-to-face. The finished report, The Foods We Eat, is a fascinating book, showing how different some of our parents’ and grandparents’ diets were – consuming blancmange, spam and stewed fruit, gallons of tea and hardly any wine.
But the most dramatic change over the past two generations has been the meat we eat. At the midday meal back then, beef was by far the most popular dish, with a third of the
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