Find Sova — Slavic for owl — in Notting Hill, opposite the majestic Books for Cooks, round the corner from the ever-stirring Portobello Road. There’s a parliament sitting on the shelves before the bar, among the vinyl (I spy a Cliff Richard record, curiously), fetească and pickled berries. The room is painted a garden green and there are DJ decks positioned at the window end; light beams onto stunning marble. A bartender from East Dulwich, jolly despite an unenviable commute, suggests wines from Ukraine, Croatia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Serbia, Romania, Armenia and so on. Georgia too, the wine-making nation “of the…
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