Asparagus has long had a reputation as a posh, high-end vegetable, thanks to its short season and labour-intensive harvest – but it was not always confined to restaurant plates and farmers’ market bundles.
During the Second World War, it grew widely in allotments across the UK as part of the Dig for Victory campaign, which encouraged people to grow their own food amid shortages and rationing.
Today, while the plant itself is relatively unchanged, asparagus has undergone a dramatic reputational makeover. It is now found shaved into fresh salads, tossed through vibrant low-calorie pasta dishes or charred on the barbecue as a
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