‘If the restaurant you have been directed to lies between the 7-Eleven and the dry cleaners in a dusty strip mall, then you’re probably at the right place.’ Jonathan Gold, the legendary Los Angeles Times restaurant critic, may have died nearly eight years back, but his wisdom is eternal.
Northwest London’s Dong Yuan is a case in point. Situated on the edge of a building site, in a bleakly anonymous Park Royal industrial estate, this is not the sort of place you’d stumble across. They haven’t even changed the sign from the site’s last incarnation, ‘Meat & Grill’. But if it’s
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