How Harry Potter lost its magic: This Victorian bridge is Scotland’s third most popular attraction… but locals are near breaking point

As the morning rainclouds clear like gunsmoke from the surrounding mountains, the tiny village of Glenfinnan fills once more with the scent of rebellion.

On the hillsides high above, vast crowds trample the sodden earth in their eagerness to gain a vantage point as the clock ticks down. Some have been here for an hour or more, others only make it with seconds to spare.

At 10.45am, a crackle of excitement spreads through their ranks as they spot the first familiar white puffs push round a distant corner.

The moment they have travelled, in some cases, half the world to see begins to

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