TOM PARKER BOWLES: There’s much to like about this Berkhamstead spot that farms its own first-class ingredients

I’ve never quite understood why ‘farm to table’ is something to shout about. Because until all of our food is grown in sterile labs and grim research facilities, pretty much everything we consume starts life in or on the ground, regardless of whether you’re Harvester or Hélène Darroze. Perhaps I’m being unduly pedantic here but, just like perfectly well-meaning staff asking if they can explain the menu (grrrrr!), this seems a case of stating the bloody obvious.

Which is not to do down Wild, a ‘farm to table’ place in Berkhamsted. They really do have their own regenerative farm, a few

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