It doesn’t start well, as I spend a few excruciatingly embarrassing moments trying to wrench open a window that I think is a door. Much to the glee of the punters inside Kid, a new Soho sort-of-Turkish mangal from David Carter. I eventually locate the actual entrance, discreetly marked, just around the corner, and am told by the lovely reception staff that no, I’m not a hapless halfwit, and yes, this has fooled others before. I’m not so sure.
Anyway, expectations are high. Carter is an exceptional restaurateur and a man not overly concerned with ‘authenticity’. Smokestak (Texan BBQ), Manteca (Italian
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