Competition, meanwhile, is arriving from closer to home. Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs 2018 (£58, shop.nyetimber.com) comes from Chardonnay grown in West Sussex and Hampshire, tasting cool and precise, with green apple, lemon cream and toasted hazelnut, while Nyetimber itself comes from Gay Street, where Stuart and Sandy Moss planted the classic Champagne varieties in 1988. In those early days, Stuart once went damp in the eyes when I asked him for his autograph, which says something about how improbable England’s present confidence once seemed.
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