As best I can tell the philosophy here is: what if things were really good? Would that be cool? Marcos, the general manager, leans on your table, lazily flaps through the extensive (obviously) wine list, listens to the three bottles you were sort-of-maybe-thinking you were going to get and does a “yeah, sure” shrug before pointing with his thumb at something better. Behind the counter, Nick Bramham has quietly been one of the city’s most in-form head chefs for a while now — he loves nudging a rich yellow plate-bowl of pasta across the counter like he’s played a really…
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