I have made the mistake of coming with an eater who has a shellfish allergy, which means my grand ambition of starting the meal with “every meze” is foiled: I make eyes at every bowl of taramasalata that goes past me for the rest of the night, every plate of bluefin ezme. It feels ludicrous to spend so much of a paragraph on dips, but here we are: the smoked aubergine and garlic (a perfect temper of smoky and creamy, topped with a handful of potato straw-like grains, a dip that made me say “oh MY!” out loud, a phrase…
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