The cooking earns its place in the production: properly pounded Garronese Veneta carpaccio, beautifully fine game ravioli paired, at the chef’s insistence, with Château d’Yquem 2020, its luscious sweetness playing against the savoury, saline intensity of the jus. Evidently, one of Bordeaux’s greatest sweet wines need not wait for pudding. A superbly nuanced combination of stracchino, lagoon honey and bee pollen follows. Sommelier Lara Moro speaks of balance and lightness as a philosophy of life as much as of wine, a welcome counterpoint to the operatic surroundings. Across the water, the illuminated Salute supplies the backdrop until lightning briefly takes…
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